Hainanese chicken rice at Portico

For Sunday lunch yesterday, my son took me to Portico in Serendra, Fort Bonifacio. Besides its culinary delights, the restaurant's best asset seems to be its interiors -- warm yellow hues on the walls and china, high ceiling, and a glass wall separating the kitchen from the dining area.

My son had chicken extravaganza (P470) and for appetizers, we had spring rolls (P300). I ordered the house specialty which was boxed and had a check mark on its menu -- Hainanese chicken (P410). I was torn between having a fish dish or chicken but since fish was not available, it made my choice easier. The shrimps and salmon spring rolls were yummy and crispy and one order could feed four persons.

I love chicken rice and I've had quite a taste of Thai, Singaporean, Malaysian and Filipino versions. In Singapore, Boon Tong Kee at Balestier Road is a popular destination for foodies. On my last trip to Singapore, I took a cab from my hotel all the way to Boon Tong Kee to try out what was purported to be the best chicken rice in Singapore. It was good but did not measure up to the best chicken rice I had in Bangkok. The chicken stall is at a roadside of Phaholyothin Road opposite the Kasetsart University-Department of Agriculture complex, outside the Maruay Garden Hotel. In Hainanese chicken, there's nothing fancy about the chicken as it is just simmered for 45 minutes or so in boiling water so the piece de resistance is the sauce. That Thai version I love and crave for is served with a unique spicy hot sauce made of preserved yellow beans (tao hoo yee) and chicken soup, a bowl of piping hot chicken soup, and a plate of fluffy jasmine rice cooked in chicken broth, pandan and ginger.

Given this backdrop of chicken rice experiences, the one I had at Portico was an utter disappointment. The pieces of Hainanese chicken were served on a large white square plate. On the plate sat the bowl of rice, chicken soup, ginger and chili sauce. The soup was not gingery at all and it tasted like it was made from a bouillon cube. What made it even more disappointing is the fact that it is featured as the restaurant's special (boxed and checked!).

If like me, you hanker for true Hainanese chicken rice in Metro Manila, don't drive all the way to Serendra. It is a waste of time and gasoline. On a Saturday morning, hie off to the Singaporean food stall in Salcedo Market. The food stall is on the left side from the main entrance to the market, near the roasted calf. An order of chicken rice which costs only P150 comes as a big slab of chicken (drumstick and thigh), a bowl of chicken-flavored rice, ginger sauce, and chili sauce. It is real Hainanese chicken rice that never disappoints your taste buds and gives good value to your money. While at the stall, you can also buy laksa -- a spicy Malaysian noodle dish with spicy coconut milk soup, chicken meat, and prawn. I usually take these goodies home and eat each slowly to savor the flavor of true Hainanese chicken rice.